Covid-19 Response

TEMPORARY CLOSURE

It was with great weight and responsibility to our community that we announced our temporary closure, effective Saturday, March 14.

The health and well being of our members, guests, and employees weighed heavily on our decision to be part of the solution, not the problem. #flattenthecurve.

EDGEWORKS COMMUNITY

We are immensely grateful for the outpouring of support we’ve received from you, the Edgeworks community! Your kind words and ongoing financial support have been crucial in helping us get through one of the toughest times we have ever gone through. We couldn’t do this without you. Thank you! #WeGotThisTacoma

OUR STAFF

Our staff and our community mean the world to us, now and always. For this reason, we are choosing to hold our commitment to ALL of our employees and continue to pay them 100% of their regularly scheduled hours for as long as we can.

Choosing to maintain your membership will further our ability to ensure their jobs and wages for as long as possible. We hope your experience at Edgeworks has been excellent and you will stay with us through this time. Thank you for your consideration.

MEMBERSHIP RESOURCES

For more information about membership options, updates and free freezes, please head over to our new Member Resources page.

UPDATES + MESSAGES

April 17 | Your Membership Dollars + Reopening Info
March 25 | Update For Our Members
March 16 | Gym Closure Update #2
March 13 | Temporarily Suspending Operations
March 9 | Community Health Information

STAY CONNECTED

Because social distancing and a “Stay Home, Stay Healthy” order doesn’t have to mean isolation, we’re continuing to work on a number of different ways to continue serving our members (you!).

If you’re not already following us on Facebook and Instagram, we invite you to join us there!

WHEN WILL WE REOPEN?

While we’re anxious to reopen our doors and climbing walls as soon possible, that decision is currently out of our control.

Once the “Stay Home. Stay Healthy” order is lifted for indoor gyms (phase 3) we will refer to the state, CDC and WHO guidelines for event and group gatherings. You can expect to receive updates from us regarding our reopening date and plans going forward.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT + PATIENCE

Thank you for your patience while we navigate this new, unprecedented situation.

Please take care of yourselves and your families, check in with your friends and neighbors and follow the advice of the World Health Organization:

– Wash your hands frequently
– Maintain social distancing
– Avoid touching eyes, nose and mouth
– Practice respiratory hygiene
– If you have fever, cough and difficulty breathing, seek medical care early

EDGE OF SANITY

The ALL NEW Member Challenge!

Report your weekly challenge points here.

Because we’re all missing the climbing gym, our friends and the member challenge … and because we can all do our part to #flattenthecurve while still having some fun …

We’re excited to announce an ALL NEW LIST of 140+ social distancing approved member challenge items to help keep everyone active, engaged and SANE during this time of community health isolation.

We present to you: EDGE OF SANITY!

Here’s how it will work:

1. New challenge sheets can be found HERE. Print one out and join the fun!

2. Each box = 1 point; unless otherwise marked with an # on the form.

3. Members are responsible for recording and reporting their points each week.

4. This link will be updated weekly for members to log in and report their points; it will also be shared on Facebook and Instagram.

5. While we’re curious to track these points separately, points will be added to existing Member Challenge tallies.

6. Anyone not already participating in the member challenge is invited to join us now and start Earning Your Peaks!

7. The same points and peaks will apply.

8. FREE t-shirts and iron-on peaks will be awarded when we re-open*.

9. Timeline to be extended as needed!

And, don’t forget to share your photos and/or videos with us on our Facebook and Instagram accounts! Because if a challenge is done at home and no one is there to see it, does it really happen?

*Challenge REWARDS are for Edgeworks MEMBERS only!

Route Setter Beta

Am I doing this right?

by: Joe Stangel

It’s a word you will hear all the time when you’re hanging out with climbers – beta.

The word comes from a long time ago; in a galaxy far, far away. It references a time when climbers used to film their climbs on beta max tapes. People would ask each other for the beta tape of certain climbs to figure out how they did the climb. Nowadays, the word is thrown around everyday by climbers big and small. What is beta? What’s the beta? What’s your beta? There is often a big difference between those questions. 

Beta is a shorthand way to reference the sequence of movements that someone used to climb their way through a route or problem. It can apply to an entire climb or even a single, specific move.  As route setters it’s our job to create sequences that appropriately challenge climbers of all skill levels. A 5.12 climber has a different bag of tricks and tools of the trade than the ones a 5.10 climber does. Experienced climbers know how to use body positioning to solve more complex sequences rather than just relying on pure strength. One of our goals as route setters is to teach these more complex sequences to less experienced climbers. By positioning and ordering hand and foot holds just right, it’s possible to lead people into unique and different body positions. This is often what is called the intended beta. Our objective is to make sure that the intended beta is appropriate for the grade and to be the easiest way to complete the climb. But, it may not be the simplest or most obvious way. For newer climbers this is where the beta is often ‘broken’

In a climbing gym, route setters have nearly complete control of what hand holds and foot holds a climber can use. Because of this we have more control of the consistency of grades, both in relation to climbs of the same grade and climbs of the grades directly above and below that one. This leads to situations you won’t see outdoors. The most obvious example of this is foot holds on easier climbs (think 5.5 to 5.10-). At Edgeworks, the feet on these climbs are often nearly as big as the hands, only less incut and positive. Often they are sloped or flat. The goal is for them to be not as nice to grab onto than the nice, positive jug right next to it. This is how we ‘force’ sequences on the lower grades. This is often also where people create the habit of grabbing whatever they can and muscling their way to the top. After a few months, hand strength increases and climbers start to feel more comfortable using smaller edges and crimps. Next, those climbs that ask for more technique to get to the top become a little easier to get, think 5.10- to 5.10+.

This is when grabbing and pulling isn’t always the easiest way to do a sequence.  This is where the route setters are trying to teach climbers the different capabilities of their bodies. This is where we are trying to lead you into doing something a little different. It might feel insecure or awkward or require you to do something you haven’t before, but it should feel ‘right’. It should also make you want to naturally move through the sequence. Once you are used to it, it should feel easy. Easier than grabbing on that tiny, sharp foot chip, stepping up and getting fully stretched out to grab then next good hold. Which oftentimes will put your hands out of sequence for the next move. So a clumsy hand match on an obviously single handed hold is required to keep moving. I don’t know about anyone else but that doesn’t sound like a fun climb to me. Just because you can reach something doesn’t mean you should. 

These types of situations are when we see the most complaints about a route or problem being reachy, awkward, hard for the grade or just bad. It’s tough to hear and deal with. Not because it’s a negative review of our work, but because there’s no easy way for us to address it. We can’t offer the beta. We can’t help or talk you through the difficulties. We can’t offer little tips or tricks. We can only set the challenge and then hope climbers will accept it and be open to learning new ways to work through the tough spots. 

Modern climbing isn’t about just getting to the top, it’s about the journey you take to get there. Route setters create a maze, a puzzle for your body and mind, and we are rooting for you to get to the other end.

Online Fitness Classes

Streaming live and online!

We’re excited to announce an all new way for you to still get those much needed (and missed!) Edgeworks Fitness’ Program fixes – we are now offering LIVE, STREAMING yoga + fitness classes with all your favorite instructors!

Because social distancing doesn’t have to mean isolation! The Edgeworks Fitness team is still here for you – helping you stay connected and active.

YOGA CLASSES

Head on over to our new Edgeworks Fitness Facebook page to get direct access to all of our yoga classes taught by the instructors you know and love, offered LIVE and ONLINE.

Yoga classes are offered every weekday with no registration required*. Simply set up your mat, pull up the Facebook page and follow along!

Miss a class or want to take it again? No problem! All yoga classes will remain on our Edgeworks Fitness page, available for you to participate whenever is convenient for you.

*Note: Restorative Yoga, Saturdays at 11am with Mary will not be available through the Edgeworks Fitness page and instead requires advance registration to participate. See below for instructions.

FITNESS CLASSES

Edgeworks members can also participate in their favorite fitness classes!

Strength + Conditioning, Core 45, Circuit 60, and Durability for Climbers are now being offered LIVE and ONLINE through Google Meet! Unlike the classes offered on our Facebook page, Google Meet allows our fitness instructors to engage and interact, live with members – an important element when working on strength and conditioning exercises.

How to join a fitness class:
Head on over to the online schedule and register for class. Once your registration is complete, you will receive a link and easy to follow instructions to join the Google Meet session. It’s that easy!

Fitness class reservations are available to MEMBERS ONLY and will open 24 hours prior to the start of each class. If no times are available, then the reservation window has not yet opened. Please check back 8 hours prior to the start of the class, or refresh your browser.

Space is limited. Sign up online to reserve your spot!

Online Climbing Clinics

Monday, Wednesday + Friday Evenings

Just because we have to practice social distancing, doesn’t mean we can’t also teach some climbing skills. Every Monday at 8pm, Wednesday at 6pm and Friday at 7pm, we will host free online clinics for our members.

Our experienced, professional, and AMGA certified climbing instructors will lead a different clinic – from clipping and un-clipping quickdraws to hauling and raising systems. These clinics will be taught virtually via Google Meet with sign-in links and instructions emailed with registration.

Clinics are FREE for members but space is limited so be sure to SIGN-UP early to claim your spot and take advantage of this cool member perk!

Registration for each clinic will be made available 6 days in advance of the scheduled date.

Cancellations + No-Shows

Because the response to these clinics has been very popular, we ask you to do your absolute best to show up for the clinic you register for. If you cannot make it, please cancel as soon as possible so that we can open up the space for others.

NEXT UP:

Friday 7pm | May 22, 2020: Mechanical Advantage
Mechanical advantage is what we use to rescue stuck climbers, team mates from crevasses, and rig super tight tyrolean traverses. This essential topic is fraught with nuance, and we are here to help.
Suggested equipment: anchor, rope, harness, assorted carabiners, guide style belay device, pulley’s, micro-traction, tiblock, slings, runners, prusik loops

Monday 8pm | May 25, 2020: Belaying + Lowering From Above
When climbing multi-pitch routes, or top accessed single pitch routes, it is important to know how to efficiently belay your partner up and how to let them down.
Suggested equipment: anchor, rope, guide style belay device, gri gri, prusik loop, assorted carabiners, assorted slings

Wednesday 6pm | May 27, 2020: Rappelling
Learn how, why and when to set up extended rappels.
Suggested equipment: harness, belay/rappel device, PAS or 120cm sling, 3 locking carabiners, prussik loop or 60cm sling, rope

Don’t have the listed equipment? Feel free to watch and contribute with questions.

Complete Schedule:

Mondays at 8pm :
May 25 | Belaying + Lowering From Above  w/ Andrew Powell

Wednesdays at 6pm :
May 27 | Rappelling  w/ Tod Bloxham

Fridays at 7pm :
May 22 | Mechanical Advantage  w/ Lyra Pierotti
May 29 | Equipment Check  w/ Jayden Johnston

Space is limited. Sign up online to reserve your spot!

Hangboard Tips + Technique

Calluses gone and finger strength waining? Time to dust off the old hangboard and start re-building your strength. But where do you start?

Join route setter and Team Edgeworks new head coach, Michael, for a weekly live video series all about HANGBOARDING – Fridays at 7:15pm on the Edgeworks Fitness Facebook page.

Each week, Michael will focus on different tips n’ tricks of hangboarding, and each week will have a different theme; starting with the basics of hangboarding, who should hangboard, how to safely hangboard and more.

Miss a session or want to take it again? No problem! These videos will remain on our Edgeworks Fitness page, available for you to participate whenever is convenient for you.

Monthly Climbers’ Social


MAY 26, 2020 – ONLINE TRIVIA NIGHT!

Climbinggames, competitions, prizes, FREE BEER!, and social time with friends (old and new), it doesn’t get much better than this!

The FIRST TUESDAY of every month, we invite you to be part of the Edgeworks community: meet other climbers, share stories, get tips from our staff, and have fun.

These events are also an opportunity for us to support the awesome work of our friends over at the American Alpine Club and Access Fund by providing discounted day passes to the members of either group. If you’re not already familiar with the work these two organizations do to keep outdoor climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment we all enjoy, we invite you check them out and get involved. 

As always, our Climbers’ Social evenings are FREE! for Edgeworks members.
$12 for AAC and Access Fund members
$20 for everyone else.

Social and activities begin at 7pm.

Join us for the FUN!


NEXT UP:

May 26, 2020 – Online Trivia Night
Time to gather your teams up for NEXT TUESDAY’S Trivia Night happening at 6:30PM! The winning team will receive and Edgeworks Gift Card 🔥 Don’t miss out on the fun… 🎉

Zoom meeting link will be provided closer to the event date.

 

I just wanted to climb

An open letter to the Edgeworks Community

written by: Hal Warren

To my Edgeworks family,

In light of the pandemic that we all have been affected by, I would like to speak as an athlete whose lifestyle is inherently intertwined with training at the gym and getting outside to climb. But most importantly, I would like to speak as a member of the Edgeworks community. A community that has practically raised me since I was 11 years old.

Things are difficult. And for most of my life I have dealt with difficult things by going climbing. Over the years, the sport became an outlet like no other, a perfect mindfulness practice, and a place where I could freely and unapologetically express my personality. Edgeworks, alongside the local climbing areas in WA, became my sanction. In the same way Washington’s wild beauty serves many members at Edgeworks, I felt the happiest when out in the forest climbing.

When my school shut down and Edgeworks didn’t, my first response was psych that I now had 30 extra hours in my week to be at the climbing gym. Then Edgeworks closed. And I got ecstatic that I would finally have time to put down some of my sport projects at exit 32 and to finally send my projects in Index. With that excitement for all the climbing I was about to do came the statewide “Stay Home Stay Safe” initiative by Gov. Inslee, an act to keep Washingtonians safe and make sure those who need the resources we do have can receive the care they need.

At first, I was confused and had trouble wrapping my head around the fact that I was going to have to spend the near future at home. Not in the climbing gym, not at the crag, and not with my people. Confused about why my happy place in the forest was suddenly not where I was supposed to be and why it would have any effect on others if I just made my little escape to the rocks. My privilege slapped me across the face. I was worried about my little escape to the forest more than I was worried about people’s family members dying. And how could I not? I was only acting out of instinct and doing what I’ve always done. I just wanted to climb. As climbers, smart Washingtonians, and humans, we have an obligation. An obligation to help our climbing, state, and human communities stay safe. We can’t let our personal desires get in the way of doing what is right.

With the closures of areas like Bishop and Moab, I started to think about our own areas here in Washington that need protection. If we flood the crags and boulder field parking areas at first chance once they reopen, we are at risk of access becoming limited, restricted all together and/or worst case, we risk our reputation as climbers. We must think holistically and proactively as to how we are going to continue to help our own community and at risk communities with limited resources. We must be aware of the impact our recreation and sport has on smaller communities and we must take initiative to ensure that we as climbers are helping, not making things harder.

I am committed myself and encourage you as a community to think about how your actions as climbers and outdoor enthusiasts will affect the places you love. Before you launch out of the house at first knowledge that areas are opened again, reflect on your impact and how you will reduce it. This is a defining moment for us as climbers to do a small bit of good in the world. And the world needs as much good as it can get.

With love,
Hal Warren
Team Edgeworks coach and athlete